Tabor Canyon, just south of Loreto, BCS, is a rocky-bouldery mess. The trail is an occasional pile of rocks weaving up the canyon that looks like it was hit by a hurricane yesterday.
What made the hike interesting is the sheer size of the boulders and how to navigate them. There were 3 crux points with some bolted in ropes. The first was a simple traverse around a waterfall (that was dry but still to tall to just "hop" up).
The second and third were a bit more "spicy". I was crying to my mommy as I had to pull myself under the big boulder and up a 20 foot rope. I seriously thought about turning around - not good to be laying there broken with no one around.
Each spot had me questioning whether I should turn back but around the next corner I could hear another waterfall so I kept going and going...
This ended up being way more physically and mentally challenging than I set out to do. Going to need some Don Julio to calm my nightmares of climbing down those ropes.
Yes, I did have to come back down! I swear those ropes were the scariest part of my whole trip so far! I turned the camera off to limit the splashing sounds of body fluids running down the rock.
Here is a video link if you are looking to see me stumble and cry for 30 minutes.
Well, I try to throw in some adventure - on a daily basis - and so I keep my ears tuned into people saying things like: "That is too dangerous", "Someone broke their leg...", "Don't go there without a guide!"
Mesquite canyon is a spring fed canyon in the local mountains, "Sierra de la Giganta", that has been carved over the millennia. Hurricanes in the wet season must also contribute to the erosion that creates these smooth walls.
As usual, I get butterflys and self doubt. Will I be able to even find the exit to the dirt road through the excavation, past the barbed wire gates, and navigate the multitude of off shoot jeep tracks? What if I get hurt? What if someone steals the dirtbike? OMG, the thoughts I have to push down.
Typical cattle barriers. Unhook, go through, Rehook.
...in the distance...
Prime shade parking!
This is the entrance to Mesquite Canyon.
After the 30 min highway and the 30 minute desert wandering, I arrive, change into my bathing suit and running shoes and mentally prepare for the unknown.
The beginning had me scramble up and around an unclimable smooth waterfall. It was a bit confusing and frankly, sketchy, as the fall from the top would have been 20m! Once past, the walking and navigation was straight forward. My only fear was the temperature of the water. I actually had thoughts that since the rain had not been here for a while, I'd stay dry. Boy, was I wrong. This canyon is spring fed and the pools ranged from very cold to frigid!
At the top of the canyon, you have the option to climb up to the rim and desert walk home. I opted to retrace my steps and keep this as a wet hike. Going back took the unknown out of the hike, I was already wet and I had an idea about how deep the pools were.
But...
While at the upper end, I bumped into a group from SanFrancisco and they convinced me to continue a bit with them. It involved swimming through 2 pools, about 50m each. Shitballs that was cold. I needed to lay on the warm rocks to stop my violent shaking. I could really use a layer of fat...?
Anyways, here is a 9 minute video, some slow, some sped up.
Part of the commitment to exploring Baja is moving around and living for a longer time in a variety of places.
First a month in Todos Santos, now we are north in Loreto until the beginning of February. The second half has us returning to the chaos of Cabo - a month in San Jose, then finish up in Cabo San Lucas.
Loreto, BCS, was approximately a 7 hour drive north from the Cabo airport. We wound through the mountains towards LaPaz then flat flat flat to the west "Ciudad Constitution". Then north up through some more mountains and dropping into Loreto Bay.
First wash to get some of the dust off
Good Morning Loreto
Stripping some stuff off the truck
We are in a smaller city appartment on the second floor. I've learned to "acquire" NHL and NFL streams. As well, a little iHeart radio in the morning (Rock101) with my coffee and bagel. This location is great for walking about. Mom takes off to get steps in and I tend to head off on 2 wheels.
High up on the road to La Purisima
Endless arroyos - 30 minutes or more cruising up at 50kph
I often start with a plan, but a barbed wire fence and lock sets me in different directions. Sometimes I just head until I can't ride up the "wall" at the end of the arroyo. Sometimes there is an oasis with fresh water bubbling out of the ground.
Some days are a bit windy, and on one, we set off into the mountains to visit the Mission of San Javier. Beautiful! It was a twisty drive into the mountains to explore the mission and accompanying 300 year old olive tree. Chico, our walking guide, has lived there for 70 years!
The 300 year old olive tree
Pools were built to capture water and distribute through the fields.
Locked staircase. Drat.
Oranges surround the mission
After smashing the truck thousands of times over potholes and speedbumps, the squeaking has gotten worse and so I've dropped off the beast at a shop - thinking the front suspension needs some love. More later!
I set off with the intent to cut through the mountains from Todos Santos over to the airport, SJD.
Tools, extra gas, a snack and some water. Good to go! I even pre scouted and setup a route on Gaia.
True to history, I botched the map, got distracted when I should have turned and over tightened my chain causing a knocking sound…
By the time I realized my navigation error I was on the other side of a tricky arroyo and chose not to backtrack. Down towards Cabo I headed!
Beautiful narrow farm tracks wound through the mountains which eventually spit me out onto the big river down near Cabo. I cut across to San Jose for a snack and shot of espresso. I also sent word back to my trackers on the beach. Change of plans!
That knocking noise was getting louder but of course, I have all the tools EXCEPT the 12mm wrench needed. Sigh.
Side note, my best moto investment was to put mousse into the new tires. No worry of flats or this would be a different story.
Past the aeropuerta and both I went. I made the turn back west and headed into the mountains. Spectacular! I had a couple of shart moments descending in first gear but managed to pull back from the edge. At one point there were trail repair guys in a dirt loaded Tacoma paving for me. Mucho Gracias!
All in all, an adventurous 7 hour day on the bike!
I'm really enjoying mountain biking here in Baja. Previous visits didn't really leave me with time or the easy access location but since this year, I drove down and brought my bike, I've been seeking it out.
I've ridden SanFelipe, Loreto, LaVentana, Todos Santos - all following the TrailForks suggestions and intel from the local bike shops.
Reasons to bike Baja:
You don't have to wash the mud off after every ride - it does get a bit dusty but how nice is it to just roll out, ride and get home and not have bike maintenance every ride!
I only need to wear shorts and a jersey - maybe a bit of sunscreen? But certainly not layers to keep warm and dry
The trails in Baja are not constantly trying to injure/maim me - why does BC revel in naming trails "Severed Dick", "The penetrator", "Hospital Visit"? :: Here I ride XC Blue trails called "Sunset", "The View", and "Mango Express". So civilized.
However, there are the dogs. God dammed MF barking chasing scare the sh!t out of me every ride. Are there other places where there are so many feral dogs who fight all night and feel the need to defend their streetfront every time I pass. Rant over.
If you ever get a chance to ride in Todos Santos, try out the Sierra Madre trail just north of town. It wanders up/down and through the deset for 3 hours. My favorite so far. Easy 273m elevation gain. Bring water! Start early...
Well, there has been a flurry of visitors over the last weeks that will extend into January. My brother Bill arrived, quickly followed with Katie, Shannon and Grace. That makes 6 of us so we moved AirBNB to a place with 3 bedrooms and a pool! Luxury!
Whale Shark Adventure
As a Christmas gift, we went on a "Swim with the whale shark" adventure. You know, you watch youtube videos but when you are in the water swimming beside a creature the size of a school bus, you feel pretty small. I was surprised at how hard we had to swim to keep up. This was not the typical jump in the water for snorkeling and the fish come to you....it was hard work! Definitely worth it!
Here is the 10min version I trimmed down from 3 hours.
The whole experience of sunset, migrating whales breaching offshore and then the struggle of watching baby turtles attempt to enter the surf. Kind of like me learning to dirtbike, the exhausting floundering around!
Earlier, I rode the KLX over to the mountains. The sandy roads posed no challenges but the arroyo with deep sand and big rocks started to make me sweat!
And of course, some hiking exploring. This area used to be the hub of sugar cane production and export. The old port buildings are fun to climb around…
